The Barrel Matters
If you are going to build a house, you start with a solid foundation. If you are going to produce great bourbon, you must start with the barrel. To meet the legal requirements for bourbon, ‘new make’ whiskey must be aged for at least two years in new American White Oak barrels (it is not required to be made or aged in Kentucky to qualify as a bourbon - anywhere in the USA is good).
The barrels are what impart the beautiful deep amber color to bourbon, as well as the complex and delicious flavors of caramel, vanilla, and toasted coconut, to name a few.. New bourbon barrels are either toasted, charred, or both, to the specifications of each bourbon producer. The length of time a barrel is toasted or charred will develop different characteristics for the bourbon that ages within it.
Gia and I knew from the beginning that we wanted to source our materials for Everwild Spirits entirely from American-based manufacturers, and if at all possible, from Ohio. So we were very happy to learn that there is a world-class bourbon barrel cooperage just two hours drive from us, in Jackson, Ohio - Speyside Bourbon Cooperage.
When we visited Speyside, we met Paula and Rob, who were incredibly friendly and happily provided us a guided tour of their massive plant operation. When you walk into the plant, the first impression is the instant aroma of the toasted barrels - burnt marshmallows, baking bread, fresh-made caramel corn - the scent is so full and complex you can almost taste it, and you can’t help but understand instantly, at a sensory level, how the barrels truly impact the whiskey.
Speyside’s specific process for charring barrels is confidential, so we did not take pictures of that, but the barrel at the top of the page is a #4 charred barrel fresh off the line. If you look closely you can see the ‘alligator char’ pattern on the inside walls.
Why do they char the barrels? Well there are a number of benefits. The charring process helps expose the interior surface of the wood staves that are in contact with the whiskey, making the wood more receptive to absorbing and interacting with the whiskey during the aging process. As well, the natural sugars within the wood are caramelized, in a very similar way to burning a marshmallow over a fire-pit. Those caramelized sugars are then absorbed into the whiskey, imparting both the color and flavor that results in the transformation of that whiskey into bourbon. Additionally, the charcoal itself serves as a filter, or mellowing agent, to soften the harsher bite of new whiskey, ‘smoothing’ it out and improving its drinkability.
I should have mentioned this sooner, by coincidence, the day we were touring the factory was 11/11/2020, which was also our 20 year wedding anniversary. After mentioning this to our tour guide, Rob, he was kind enough to pull a barrel stamped with our anniversary date out of the line and ship it home to us as a memento.
After Rob completed the tour, we met with Paula and learned that Speyside could provide us with barrels exclusively from Ohio grown American Oak trees. This sealed the deal for us. Not only because we could procure Ohio grown and manufactured barrels, but also because of the friendliness and hospitality of the Speyside staff. We are seeking partners, not vendors, and it was clear from the respect and the attentiveness of their staff that relationships are just as important to them. We can’t wait to begin using their barrels, and sending a sample back for Paula and Rob to try.
